Dreaming of days of long multi-pitch climbing on incredible limestone in a gorgeous setting? Then head to El Potrero Chico, Mexico to make your dreams come true! This international destination attracts climbers from all over the world to explore some of the best bolted multi-pitch routes in all of North America.
Why You Should Climb in El Potrero Chico with OWA
At Outpost Wilderness Adventures, we absolutely love introducing climbers to El Potrero Chico! OWA director James Faerber first visited El Potrero Chico in 2003 shortly after moving to Texas and has been back many times since. El Potrero Chico is only about a 6.5 hr drive from the OWA winter headquarters in the Hill Country of Texas,, and it’s totally worth making that trip. In fact, Texans were key to the original route discoveries and developments down in El Potrero Chico in the 90s and even earlier.
Join OWA for the climbing trip of a lifetime in El Potrero Chico!
Guide to Visiting El Potrero Chico
If you’re ready to head to El Potrero Chico (also known as EPC), here is an overview of everything you need to know to get ready to go.
Where is El Potrero Chico?
El Potrero Chico is located in the town of Hidalgo in northern Mexico. It’s just about 25 miles northwest of the city of Monterrey in the state of Nuevo Leon.
How to Get to El Potrero Chico
You can easily drive to El Potrero Chico from Texas. It’s about a 6.5 hour drive from Austin, TX, down I-35 and then across the border. You can also fly into Monterrey if you’re coming from farther away.
If you don’t want to worry about logistics, join OWA for a guided trip to El Potrero Chico, and we’ll take care of the transportation from Austin for you!
Where to Stay in El Potrero Chico
El Potrero Chico truly caters to climbers, and you will find tons of accommodation options within just a 10-15 minute walk to the crags. From campgrounds to rooms to cabins, you can find what suits your needs close to the climbing in EPC. Some options include Homero’s, the original campground in EPC, Rancho El Sendero, which is a little off the beaten path, and Ariel’s Cabin aka The Chalet, which is in the mouth of the canyon and as close to the climbing as you can stay.
Overnight accommodations are included when you book a guided trip to El Potrero Chico with OWA!
When to Climb in El Potrero Chico
El Potrero Chico is a winter climbing destination, so it’s the perfect escape when you need a dose of sunshine during the dreary season. The best time to climb in EPC is typically November through February.
Classic Climbs & Crags in El Potrero Chico
You’ll have over 600 bolted sport routes to choose from in El Potrero Chico, and it’s definitely all about the long multi-pitch adventures. Here are a few of the best areas and routes to check out:
Jungle Wall
Jungle Wall is the perfect place to start your journey in El Potrero Chico.. It’s full of moderates, both single and multi-pitch, and it’s located right next to the road, so there is no approach.
One of the must do routes at Jungle Wall is Space Boyz (5.10d, 11 pitches). A true classic, Space Boyz is a great route to get a feel for the multi-pitch in EPC as much of it is 5.9, with only one 10d pitch. It was put up by a pair of climbers from South Texas over 52 weekends.
Yankee Clipper (5.12a, 15 pitches) is another awesome route at Jungle Wall, and if you skip the last pitch, it goes at 5.10b.
Estrellita (5.11a, 12 pitches)
Located in the Las Estrellas Canyon area, Estrellita is an amazing multi-pitch for the 5.11 climber, although it also has a few possible variations if you want to avoid the harder climbing and keep it around 5.10b at most.
Time Wave Zero (5.12a, 23 pitches)
Take it to the next level on Time Wave Zero, which is possibly the most popular route in all of EPC. At 2,300 feet, it is one of the longest sport climbs in the world, so expect an epic day to get up and down this route. There is only one 12a pitch, which can be aided if that’s above your grade, and the rest of the pitches are significantly easier.
El Sendero Luminoso (5.12+, 15 pitches)
El Sendero Luminoso is the test piece of El Potrero Chico with 15 pitches of mostly 5.11 and 5.12 climbing to reach the summit of the iconic El Toro wall that towers over EPC.
Rest Days in El Potrero Chico
During your time in El Potrero Chico, make sure to plan a rest day on a Tuesday or a Friday to hit up the local street markets in Hidalgo. They are a fun way to connect with the local community and grab some local goods.
You’ll obviously find plenty of tasty food in El Potrero Chico, too. Leo’s Tacos (aka the Mini Super “Don Reuben”) is a classic must-visit for climbers, and El Buho Cafe is the place to grab coffee (and find WiFi if you need it). And, of course, you have to stop for a drink at Edgardo’s Trailer, where you can find both climbing gear and refreshing (and strong!) margaritas!
If you want to explore a little farther out of town, you can head to the caves of Grutas de Garcia or soak in the San Joaquin Hot Springs. Both are about an hour away from El Potrero Chico.
If this has convinced you that you need to add El Potrero Chico to your climbing bucket list, join Outpost Wilderness on an epic adventure to EPC! Explore all that El Potrero Chico has to offer by booking a trip with OWA this winter!