Colorado has far more peaks above 14,000ft than any other state in the continental US. Fortunately for rock climbers there are some absolutely great technical routes on a few of these peaks. Listed below are the best of the best. After climbing several technical routes on 14ers this past year I choose these as my favorites, the list is diverse from relatively easy to hard.
1. Ellingwood ledges on Crestone Needle 14,197 – this ultra classic route follows a series of lower angle terrain until the crux pitch near the very end well above 14,000ft. The Crestone cirque is an amazing backdrop for this incredible climb.
2. The Prow on Kit Carson 14,165 – while the Sangre range is more well know for the Ellingwood ledges route The Prow on Kit Carson is an equally amazing climb with a fantastic position as it follows this narrow arête up an amazing fin of rock jutting up out of the valley far below.
3. Good Evans on the Black Wall of Mt. Evans 14,264- while the Black isn’t technically on Mt Evans proper it is part of the sub peaks that make up this magnificent mountain.
4. Casual Route on the Diamond of Longs Peak 14,255- don’t let the name fool you this route has plenty of serious climbing at a very real altitude! With a tricky and hard to protect traverse, a long classic hand crack section, a tricky crux and even some chimneys this is considered one of the best routes in the country for a good reason.
5. Inwood Arete on Quandary 14,265 – a long route on an amazing North face, Quandary is more famous for being an easy 14er this route requires tricky route finding, long 4th class sections and very real potential for tough weather. A little easy than the other routes listed this a good “first” technical route on 14ers.
